Seeing Seattle

The Emerald City - a choice destination for an easy escape

By ERIC A. JOHNSON and JACK V. BOOCH

Most Vancouverites find themselves in Seattle at least a few times a year; visiting relatives, on a business trip, en route to wherever. But for many, the sheen of the Emerald City seems to have paled recently. Sure, the denizens of Seattle defend their city's honor against negative attacks with feverish devotion, but for folks in Southwest Washington it can be awfully easy to forget everything that the city has to offer.

In the face of rising gas prices and a heaping dose of positive press - Seattle was featured in The New York Times at least twice during a single week in May as a destination of choice - we decided that our neighbor to the north deserved some long overdue attention from The Vancouver Voice.

Additionally, resident curmudgeon Jack Booch (see Doing it for Love) returned from a recent trip north glowing with renewed enthusiasm for life and spouting such uncharacteristically positive reports about all the sights and amenities Seattle has to offer that we just had to bow to the inevitable and put it in print.

The upshot of our research is this - there is more to do in downtown Seattle than a family of four could conceivably accomplish during a very busy and event-packed weekend vacation. And it's very, very affordable. Combine the availability of museums, markets, food, arts and culture on hand at cut-rate prices in the city center with Seattle's accessibility by train and mass transit, and what you end up with is a world-class destination less than four hours from Vancouver that beckons to be tapped.

With Booch's welcome assistance, we've compiled a list of the many worthwhile sights he took in during his all-too-brief visit to the city, as well as a sampling of upcoming events and other essential information for travelers setting off on a whim and with a limited budget.

THE SEATTLE CENTER

The Seattle Center (SC) is the widely under-appreciated campus of museums, cultural institutions, parks and other iconic sights in the heart of downtown Seattle. There are over 60 free or low-cost programs and roughly five thousand special events available to the public during the course of the year in this one spot alone. The SC is home to an army of educational, sports, arts and entertainment organizations, and it plays host to more cultural events and internationally recognized festivals than most mid-sized cities. Upcoming events include the Pagdiriwang Philippine Festival, a French Bastille Day Celebration, Brasilfest, Tibet Fest, Seattle Fiesta Patrias, the Italian Festival and much more. (Visit seattlecenter.com for full listings and more info.)

THE SPACE NEEDLE
Yeah, we know, you've been there, done that...but seriously, this 607-foot Seattle icon from the 1962 World's Fair is the perfect place to start your Seattle adventure. Take the 43-second elevator ride to the observation deck and help yourself to views of the Seattle skyline, the Olympic and Cascade Mountain ranges, Mount Rainier, Mount Baker, Elliott Bay and surrounding islands. (Ages 4 and under free; $8 for kids 4-13, $16 for adults 14-64, seniors 65 and up $14; day and night passes from $12-$20, active military discounts. Visit spaceneedle.com for more info.)

EXPERIENCE MUSIC PROJECT
In 2000, Seattle welcomed the latest of rich guy Paul Allen's so-called "vanity projects," the Experience Music Project (EMP). The EMP is a museum of music history designed by architectural celeb Frank Gehry. Massive egos notwithstanding, the 140,000 square foot behemoth houses a magnificent array of rock memorabilia and displays dedicated to the exploration of creativity and innovation in popular music. A recent addition to the EMP is the Science Fiction Museum and Hall of Fame, the world's first museum dedicated to the "thought-provoking ideas and experience of science fiction". On exhibit this month under the combined roof of the EMP: Robots: A Designer's Collection of Miniature Mechanical Marvels, Jimi Hendrix: An Evolution of Sound, and American Sabor: Latinos in U.S. Popular Music. (Adults $15, seniors/youth/military $12, kids 4 and younger free; visit empsfm.org for more info.)

SEATTLE CHILDREN'S MUSEUM
Within the walls of the Children's Museum are 22,000 square feet of hands-on kids fun geared for children ages 10 and under. The exhibits are interactive and allow for a truly tactile learning experience. The museum features 11 permanent exhibits, an art studio, education classrooms, a temporary traveling exhibit gallery, a storytelling circle and resource library, workshops, camps and more. During his visit, Booch overheard an 11-year-old boy comment enthusiastically to his mother, "Mommy, I want this at my house!" Don't we all. (Adults and children $7.50, grandparents $6.50, groups of 10 or more $6 per person, children under one free; visit thechildrensmuseum.org for more info.)

FUN FOREST AMUSEMENT PARK
The Fun Forest is right in the middle of The Seattle Center, and features cheap fun for all ages. The park features a roller coaster called Windstorm, a log ride sort of water ride called Wild River, two Scrambler-type rides called Orbiter and Tornado, a tilt-o-whirl ride called Music Express and a swinging ship called Galleon, along with other staples like a Ferris wheel and bumper cars. The entertainment pavilion contains a climbing wall, laser tag, bumper cars, prize games, video games, mini-golf, an inflatable super-slide and carnies (that's right, carnies). (Visit funforest.com for more info.)

PACIFIC SCIENCE CENTER
The Pacific Science Center is to Seattle as OMSI is to Portland/Vancouver. They have an IMAX theater, planetarium, laser light shows, exhibits, exhibits and more exhibits. If you're into live butterflies, not-so-live dinosaurs and vaguely unsettling science experiments, then don't miss this Seattle attraction. (Prices vary; call -206-443-2001 or visit pacsci.org.)

PIONEER SQUARE
Pioneer Square was first established in 1852, and is known as the birthplace (and first downtown area) of modern Seattle. The district declined during the first World War, and became know as "Skid Road" named after the road that was laden with skid marks from logs as they slid down to the barges. Today, Pioneer Square features over 20 blocks of Victorian Romanesque architecture - and home to over 30 galleries and over 200 independently owned and flavored shops. (Visit pioneersquare.org for more info.)

 

THE WATERFRONT

Located along Elliott Bay, between Piers 52 and 64, The Seattle waterfront is a vacation destination all by itself. With access to ferries leading all over the Puget Sound and beyond, the waterfront has a distinct and nostalgia inducing personality all its own. Devote at least a day to exploring the myriad markets, restaurants and shops.

PIKE PLACE MARKET
Pike Place Market is as emblematic of Seattle as the Space Needle and copious amounts of rain. It's a tourist haven, all right, but unlike most tourist traps, it lives up to its billing and then some. Unlike the Portland Saturday Market, which is a glorified craft fair by comparison, Pike Place is the best place in the city to find fresh produce, seafood and handmade goods of all shapes and sizes in one place. The number of local residents from all over the city who frequent the market to do their shopping speaks to the quality of its wares. And really, you can't leave Seattle without paying a visit to the giant pig sculpture. (Visit pikeplacemarket.org for more info.)

OLYMPIC SCULPTURE PARK
After an early breakfast and a trip to the Market, Booch naturally found himself at the Olympic Sculpture Park. He blinked in the sun and rubbed his eyes in astonishment at the wondrous sight he'd stumbled upon. In years to come, the red steel and strident lines of Alexander Calder's Eagle may become as emblematic of Seattle as any of the other iconic structures listed thus far. At any rate, the park's nine acres of installations are a marked improvement on the industrial wreckage that preceded it. Other noteworthy pieces include the Typewriter Eraser, Scale X by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen, a stainless steel tree entitled Split by Roxy Paine and a large form sculpture, Wake, by Richard Serra. (Visit seattleartmuseum.org/visit/OSP for more info.)

BAINBRIDGE ISLAND FERRY
After tearing himself away from the sculpture park, Booch made his way down to the docks to catch the ferry to Bainbridge Island. From Pier 52, it has now been proven that an entire day's excursion across the sound, complete with lunch on the island and sightseeing, can be had for $30 or less. Just try and beat that! (Ferry $6.70 adults, $5.40 youth, $3.35 seniors; call 206-464-6400 or visit wsdot.wa.gov/ferries for more info.)

THE SEATTLE AQUARIUM
The Northwest's premier aquarium, this Seattle favorite offers a wide variety of exhibits such as Ocean Oddities, Life on the Edge (an exhibit that mimics the tide pools of Washington's outer coasts and Seattle's inland seas), Ring of Life (a 12-foot-high crystal ring surrounded by mystical Moon Jellyfish), Giant Octopus (self-explanatory), the majestic Underwater Dome and more. If you're going to explore the Puget Sound, why not find out what's under the waves while you're at it? (Ages 3 and under free, 4-12 $10, 13 and over $15; call 206-386-4300 or visit seattleaquarium.org for more info.)

THE INTERNATIONAL DISTRICT

The first rule of China Town is to not call it "China Town." Sure, the signs and tourists maps say it, and technically the terms "China Town" and "The International District" are interchangeable, but unlike many other China Towns, the Seattle version is truly the cultural hub of the Asian American community. A vibrant and unique area, The International District was home to high concentrations of Chinese, Japanese, Filipinos, African Americans, Vietnamese, Koreans and Cambodians virtually from the city's inception. The historical impact has been profound indeed, and while there have moments of brutality and prejudice, the area's history is nonetheless a rich one. Naturally, the food is magnificent, and you can find authentic cuisine with ample portions for $5 or less without even trying. If you get the chance, visit the The Wing Luke Museum, which opened its new location just last month. The central exhibit depicts the 200-year story of the immigration and settlement of Asians and Pacific Islanders into Washington State in amazing detail. (Ages 5 and under free, 5-12 $5, 13-18 and seniors $6, adults $8; call 206-623-5124 or visit wingluke.org for more info.)

UPCOMING EVENTS

BUMBERSHOOT
Bumbershoot (August 30-September 1) is one of those smorgasbords of music, art, and general mayhem that, like the recent Sasquatch Festival (see Rock and Roll vs. Mother Nature), practically boggles the mind, it's so great. This year's offerings include Aiden, Beck, Neko Case, Jakob Dylan, Del Tha Funkee Homosapien, Mike Doughty/ Xavier Rudd, Lee "Scratch" Perry, Saul Williams and many others. Also, for you comedy lovers, Zach Galifianakis, Doug Benson and Aziz Ansari will exercise their most earnest efforts aimed at busting your gut. (One-day pass $35 advanced/$40 regular, three-day pass $80 advanced /$100 regular, three-day Gold Pass $195, three-day Platinum Pass $395; visit bumbershoot.org for full calendar of events.)

JAZZ ALLEY
For aficionados of live jazz, Dimitriou's Jazz Alley needs no introduction. Suffice it to say that this venue is simultaneously one of the most intimate and most famous jazz venues on the West Coast. Make a dinner reservation and take in a world class act from your table or buy tickets and sip a martini in the back of the room. The calendar for '08-'09 is jam packed, as usual, but the following gems are not to be missed: Grammy-winning crooner Kurt Elling performs with special guest Ernie Watts June 5-8 (Elling is arguably the greatest male vocalist in the biz, and Watts, a saxophonist with two Grammies of his own under his belt, is no slouch). James Brown's former bandleader Maceo Parker brings his "greatest little funk orchestra on earth" to Jazz Alley for two nights that are sure to prove memorable (June 23-24). (For a full calendar of events visit jazzalley.com.)

SELECTED THEATRE
Mr. Booch (former Executive Producer for The Theatre Guild, Inc., in Manhattan) directed plays at the Seattle Repertory Theatre many decades ago and insists that Seattle has a lot to offer the theatrically inclined. After perusing the upcoming offerings, Booch selected the following productions from the vast array of options:

ACT Theatre presents Intimate Exchanges (August 21-September 14), by Alan Ayckbourn. Booch describes Ayckbourn as "England's Neal Simon, only better." Then, well into Spring 2009, ACT presents Harold Pinter's Betrayal (March 26-April 26, 2009). Booch describes Betrayal as, "a classic work from one the best-if maddeningly elliptical-English playwrights of the twentieth century." (Visit acttheatre.org for a season schedule and more info.)

Seattle Repertory Theatre has a number of promising productions coming up, including the old standby and certain crowd-pleaser You Can't Take it With You (November 28-January 3), by George S. Kauffman and Moss Hart. The verdict is still out on Irish playwright Conor McPherson, but Booch insists that anyone working in the rich tradition of O'Casey and Synge deserves a look. McPherson's The Seafarer (February 26-March 28, 2009) is bound to be a rewarding gamble. (Visit seattlerep.org for a season schedule and more info.)

INTIMAN Theatre presents Tennessee Williams's A Streetcar Named Desire (July 3-August 2). If you haven't seen Williams's famous play already, this is as good an opportunity as any. (Visit intiman.org for a season schedule and more info.)

GETTING THERE

In a word - Amtrak. Of course, you can drive to Seattle, but if you're coming from Vancouver, you'll both save money and avoid stress while enjoying the unique delights of train travel. Featuring sleek and modern Italian designed trains, amenities include a bistro car with beverages and snacks available for modest prices. The trains are equipped with a limited number of bike racks, comfortable seating, movies, electrical outlets and friendly service. Instead of fuming your way through stop-and-go traffic (blast you, Tacoma!), kick back with a book and glass of beer or wine instead. (Roundtrip fares for adults usually run $28-$42, but be sure to book early, as the trains fill up fast. Senior and children's fares also available. Visit amtrak.com or call 1-800-USARAIL for more info.)

GETTING AROUND

Buses in the downtown area are free of charge from 6 a.m.-7 p.m. daily, and extend from the waterfront to I-5, and from the train station to within a couple of blocks of the Space Needle. Another noteworthy feature is the Monorail, which runs from the Westlake Center to the Seattle Center, and departs every ten minutes from 9 a.m.-11 p.m. Note of warning: cabs can be a little tricky in the hilly, winding streets of Seattle, and if you aren't careful a relatively short trip as the crow flies can turn into a hefty fare. (Visit transit.metrokc.gov and seattlemonorail.com.)

WHERE TO STAY

The Historic Panama Hotel, Tea & Coffee House ($)
McMenamins, eat your heart out! The Panama is a well-kept secret and it pains us to spread the word, but we suppose it's our duty. Located above one of the most charming cafes in the city, the hotel offers historic lodgings with ample period detail. The tea house below is refurbished from an old Japanese bath house (ask for a tour!), and while the amenities aren't excessive, they are comfortable and clean. Most importantly, the rooms can be had at bargain basement rates. The hotel is located in The International District just five short blocks from the train station and is a short walk from both stadiums, Pioneer Square, Pike Place Market, galleries, theatres and museums. It's also within the city's free bus zone. For travelers on a budget, you can't beat the Panama. (Rooms start at $85, but be sure to ask for current special deals; call 206-223-9242 to make a reservation or visit them online at panamahotelseattle.com.)

The Hotel Vintage Park ($$$)
Location is key with this jewel of a boutique hotel. Named one of the 150 Places to Stay in North America by the National Geographic Traveler, the hotel is as much a portal to downtown Seattle as it is Washington's wine culture, with each room dedicated to a local winery or vineyard. The Vintage Park is a lavishly appointed refuge from city life situated (somewhat ironically) smack dab in the center of town. Featuring all the usual amenities (attentive concierge service, room service, complimentary wi-fi, etc.), the hotel also offers customized tours of local wine country, tastings and special events. Booch described his stay as "an unusually replenishing stop at an oasis in a virtual desert of otherwise overpriced, institutional hotels." (Rooms range from $126 to $325; call 800-853-3914 for reservations or visit hotelvintagepark.com for more information.)