Aspirations of Grandeur

Can Blackstone American Grill transcend its environment and offer East Vancouver fine dining?

By Melissa Wolf

It’s no secret that Vancouver’s ubiquitous, soulless strip malls are where good taste (in every sense of the word) goes to die. So when it came time to pay East Vancouver’s new Blackstone American Grill a visit and I discovered that it was nestled in alongside a nail salon, veterinary practice and dentist’s office, I died a little inside.

But I’ve been surprised before—having wandered into a non-descript hole in the wall only to eat the best gyro of my life (the wonderful Anoush Deli at Fourth Plain and Andresen), or happened upon a Chinese joint that looked like it might be cooking up a batch of Hep C but floored me with its broccoli beef (Canton Chinese Buffet in Hazel Dell)—so I dismissed my initial reaction to Blackstone’s strip mall façade and went in.

Inside was surprisingly cozy (considering the restaurant’s less-than-stylish location), its exposed brick, gas fireplace and soft lighting well-matched by the soft crooning of Ol’ Blue Eyes and Ella Fitzgerald.

The bar looked intimately dim and inviting, with overstuffed couches and chairs, and a long swath of bar flanked by stately wine shelves and a wide array of booze on display. It looks like the way The Ringside (Portland’s finest steakhouse) might if it gave up its West Hills perch and went slumming in a suburban strip mall.

However, there’s a reason The Ringside doesn’t have any windows: it doesn’t have a view—and neither does Blackstone. Seated along the southern wall of windows, I was faced with the most uninspiring panorama—two gas stations and an empty parking lot. Some simple blinds might go a long way toward blocking the concrete wasteland outside and preserving the cozy atmosphere within.

My dinner companion and I started off by ordering wine (a bold Rioja Crianza red for me, a Riesling for my guest) to go with the complimentary warm focaccia (which was perfectly baked, but a bit bland).

Next, the shrimp skewer appetizer, which the menu touted as being grilled in various seasonings, but which seemed instead to be doused with an inordinate amount of cayenne pepper. The shrimp itself was overcooked, though the poblano sauce it was served with was good, if somewhat unremarkable.

House salads followed—mixed greens, cucumber, tomatoes and shaved red onion in a tangy balsamic vinaigrette.

Finally, dinner. My guest ordered the beef stroganoff, despite my warning—we come from a long line of stroganoff lovers, and ordering the dish sight unseen in a new restaurant is always risky. Suffice it to say, we were both disappointed with the result; the sautéed beef strips were chewy and the papardelle noodles undercooked. The only highlight was its rich, textured mushroom sauce.

My dinner was less disappointing. The mark of a good chef can be measured by how he or she cooks (or doesn’t cook, as is often the case) seafood, and in this respect—at least with the Manila clam linguine—Blackstone passed muster. The clams were served in-shell atop perfectly cooked linguine noodles in a savory butter and white wine sauce and fresh basil, a nice complement to my wine.

Finally, despite the potentially inebriated diners two tables away proclaiming the crème brûlée to be the best they’d ever had, we were sorely disappointed with its pre-packaged instant Jello flavor and odd texture, and we ate only half of the single serving we set out to share.

Overall, the experience at Blackstone (the service included, though not to any great degree) was largely underwhelming, and the food average at best. Having only been open five months, I admit that it’s entirely possible the restaurant may still be trying to find its footing. Perhaps with a change-up in the cooking staff (and a lovely set of window shades), Blackstone American Grill can transcend its strip-mall setting and become an East Vancouver staple. Only time will tell.

(Blackstone American Grill, 3200 SE 164th Ave., Ste. 204, Vancouver; 253.0253; appetizers range $3.50-$9.50, soup $3.95-$5.50, entrees $12.95-$26.95, sandwiches $7.50-$12.95, desserts $5-$7, happy hour items $1.50-$4.75, kids 12 and younger eat free on Saturdays; lunch 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Mon.-Fri., dinner 4 p.m.-10 p.m. Sun.-Thu. and 4 p.m.-11 p.m. Fri. and Sat., happy hour daily 4 p.m.-6:30 p.m. and 9 p.m. until close, breakfast and lunch served Sat.-Sun. from 8 a.m.-3 p.m.; live music in the bar 9 p.m.-1 a.m. Fri. and Sat.; www.blackstone americangrill.com)