Seres-ly Great

Exceptional Chinese at Seres

By Eric A. Johnson

It’s bad form to constantly compare our local cultural fare to that of our brethren to the south, and yet while national media flaunt their crush on Portland, one can’t help but wish that some of the better aspects of Puddletown’s high-brow scene would rub off a bit more on the north bank more often.
That’s not to say that there aren’t evenings when nothing will suffice except Vancouver’s better locales, but it’s in the nature of epicureans everywhere to hunger for more. For those of you who feel this pang, I have good news—Seres has come to town.

Seres (which “soft-opened” November 1st) features pan-Chinese cuisine geared toward fine dining. The restaurant is the brainchild of Sunny Chen, the visionary who, along with Francis Koo, brought Sungari Pearl to NW Lovejoy in Portland.

Situated conveniently near the crest of Prune Hill where east Vancouver and Camas officially meet, Seres offers much more than the standard Chinese fare available at suburban shopping malls and ubiquitous non-descript cinderblock buildings everywhere.

Take the wonton soup for example. Your average wonton tends toward MSG-laced tap water and slimy-skinned dumplings with bland, chalky filling—but not so at Seres. The wonton was delicate and piquant, and the broth was flavorful enough to stand alone.

At $8, the Peking duck salad rolls were a terrific starter, and the sesame chicken entrée was good enough to qualify as some exotic new treat, it was so unlike my previous experiences with the dish elsewhere.

House specialties include the Sungari fried rice ($9), Kung Pao chicken ($12), and a wide array of dumplings (ranging from $3 to $5). The portions are smaller than family style restaurants, but are by no means small. The service is attentive and knowledgeable, ready and able to recommend a snack or a multi-course meal.

The bar holds its own with tempting fresh-squeezed infusions and an eclectic wine list featuring an artful mix of regional and international labels.

Seres’ atmosphere combines an elegant, minimalist aesthetic with a warm and cozy Northwest feel. Although the restaurant itself is located on the corner of what can only be described as a high-end strip mall, once you’ve made it inside, the exterior quickly fades away.

Seres is a notable addition to our local culinary culture and a distinct departure from the norm. With each new eatery that opens its doors, Vancouver’s options improve—and the folks at Seres are helping to set the bar high.

Riverstone Marketplace, 3425 SE 192nd, Camas, 360.882.5505. Hours: 11:30-9pm, Thursday-Sunday,11:30-10pm Friday and Saturday. Happy hour menu at the bar is 3-6:30 all week long, and 8:30-10pm on Friday and Saturday.