Last year, I wrote a column about winemaker Ed Fus’ three Zinfandels, which remains one of my favorite columns of all time––not because of my (lack of) writing skills, but because of Fus’ superb wine craftsmanship. Earlier this year, I emailed Ed and asked him if I could sample his latest offerings and he graciously brought five bottles to my house. Yes, five, two new wines added to last year’s bounty. I am pretty sure that this column will become my favorite of 2010. But I’m getting ahead of myself. But make no mistake, we’re not talking about the pink crap.

While Zinfandel’s easygoing, sometimes-rowdy and always-friendly nature has long been one of my favorite red varietals, many winemakers and consumers alike haven’t taken Zinfandel seriously until recent years. I’ve had many Zins that I’ve enjoyed and some I haven’t, but I’ve always been eager to taste. Could it be I’ve been looking for a Zin Messiah to come along and collect me like the Reverend Moon did to the lost kids of the sixties? Enter the aforementioned Ed Fus, who has elevated the art of Zinfandel wines to an entirely new level. The Reverend Fus (pronounced “fuss”) actually produced a Primitivo––which is genetically identical to a Zinfandel but has separate and shadowy roots––and three single-vineyard Zinfandels as well as a fifth wine which is a blend of the first four. Three of my friends, all wine professionals of one sort or other, and I gathered to taste Ed’s latest creations––this promised to be too good to waste on just myself.

Did Ed’s efforts live up to our expectations?

First up was the Angel Vine 2008 Primitivo sourced from the Coyote Canyon and Stonetree vineyards in Washington’s Columbia Valley. While the 2007 Primitivo was a solid peasant table wine, hearty and forward, the 2008 has grown up and become more refined along the way. Offering a bright nose with playful notes of berry, plum, cassis and even––surprise, grape!––the 2008 Primitivo’s inky depths exude flavors of black cherry with the barest shred of maple and moderate tannins that open up on the mid-palate. The 2008 Primitivo finishes surprisingly sweetly, well-balanced between acidity and fruit. Of the five, this one might be the best stand-alone wine.

Second came the Angel Vine 2008 Zinfandel Stonetree, also from the Columbia Valley. This beautifully-balanced wine is consistent from nose to finish and might be called a classic upper-shelf Zin. The Stonetree’s blackberry color accentuates a bold nose of fruit and concentrated berry aromas. The Stonetree’s tongue is tannic but skillfully balanced with fruit. The finish starts with a fleeting glimpse of vanilla followed by the wine’s characteristic forward tannins with bits of leather and oak for good measure. The Stonetree is a perfect companion to a full-bodied maduro cigar, leisurely smoked with glass-in-hand as the sun fades to twilight.

Third was the Angel Vine 2008 Zinfandel Avery, from the Columbia Valley but further south and west than either of the first two. The Avery begins with a disconcertingly subtle nose that gives little warning of what’s to come. With teases of floral gardenia sachet, the Avery’s nose blooms to ripe fruits including the ubiquitous berry and plum. With a choreographed segue, the initial palate leads with fruit which yields increasingly to briar. Pepper emerges on the mid-palate, adding solid definition without becoming overbearing. The finish is huge and tannic––the Avery may be the lower-shelf partying sibling to the upper-shelf Stonetree. This wine starts small and builds to an enormous crescendo.

If there is a seductress among this collection, it is the Angel Vine 2008 Zinfandel Les Collines from Washington’s east Walla Walla Valley. The Les Collines’ rich nose begins beguilingly with temptations of black cherry and rose. Morsels of licorice emerge along with the barest hint of red apple. On the palate, the Les Collines is rich and buttery. Its alluring nature of floral fruit is capped by a tinge of politely assertive tannin and notes of oatmeal and rose. The finish is seductive, a rubine-gowned temptress who will slowly get you drunk and slip a knife between your shoulders. The Les Collines is expressive and nuanced and, if you survive, might encourage dreamy contemplation.

Finally, the Angel Vine 2008 Zinfandel blend, an artful fusion of the four wines above along with a little Petite Syrah. The Angel Vine Zin blend leads with a distinct nose of coffee, chocolate and tobacco plus a bit of oaky musk. This dark red wine becomes very fruit-forward on the initial palate in spite of its nose. On the mid-palate, the blend ripens with sweetness, offering a balanced counterweight to its stoic tannins. The blend’s finish is cleanly acidic and never overstays its welcome. The Angel Vine 2008 Zinfandel blend is warm and unpretentious, drawing the taster in with its easy affability.

Ed Fus’ Angel Vine wines (formerly known as Three Angels) will be available around April 1 at your favorite wine merchant or at www.angelvine.net. Each retails for $20 per 750ml bottle except for the Les Collines which is easily worth its $22 price. The Angel Vine Zinfandels will accompany an unlimited variety of lively dishes and, in general, you should pour them at around 65 degrees Fahrenheit, allowing them to warm in your hand.

Angel Vine’s 2008 Zinfandels surpassed our expectations handily. As a big Zin fan, I’m already looking forward to next year’s bottling. In fact, if Ed Fus should decide to start a cult, I will be the first to don my flowing white robes––with Zinfandel stains, of course.