Around twenty years ago, Nordstrom was lauded for keeping window displays and advertising Christmas-free until after Thanksgiving had passed. I remember my now-deceased mother, who shared the Thanksgiving-is-separate-from-Christmas mentality, praising the upscale department store for this commitment. However, as I get older and time moves so much faster, I find myself looking forward every year to “the holidays,” which for me is a prolonged season. A whirlwind of eggnog-soaked familial get-togethers peppered with plaintive whines from my children for myriad toys and expensive electronic devices, these days offer a quirky yet comforting solidarity with my past that cannot be duplicated at any other time.

Beginning a week or two after Halloween and culminating with New Year’s Day, the holidays encompass Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s as well as a number of other lesser holidays that occur within that period. (Disclaimer: I am not dissing Hanukkah here. Hanukkah, while significant, is not a high holy day along the line of Yom Kippur, so please don’t take offense, my observant Jewish friends. I am Episcopalian, but I have a beautiful hand-sewn yarmulke that I’ve worn to Synagogue.) Each of these holidays, both major and minor, have separate lessons and celebrations that my wife and I share with our daughters. Taken in its entirety, the season is one of celebration, family, renewed hope and even plain old simple fun.

Which is why holiday wines tend to be those of a celebratory nature. Special bottles that have been cellared for special occasions come out and are poured for family and guests alike. Champagnes and sparkling wines frequently make appearances throughout the season, more so than any other time of year. And special cellared bottles notwithstanding, a good celebratory holiday wine need not be rare or expensive.

Domaine Ste. Michelle offers a spirited and nicely-priced holiday wine in the form of its Blanc de Blancs Columbia Valley Sparkling Wine. Crafted using the traditional methode champenoise, the dry Blanc de Blancs begins with a sparkling hue the color of pale straw. A pleasant nose follows, defined by pear, green apples and a hint of vanilla. (Caveat: I drink a lot of wine but not so much Champagne; plus, I have an impulsive and forgetful nature. Wait until the initial bubbles subside before diving in to sample the nose or you’ll be in for a rude surprise.)

Stimulating layers of apple and pear greet the tongue with a tart yet refreshing briskness in the Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Blancs. The apple/pear traits continue to the mid-palate, giving way to a sparse lemongrass and a bit of citrus. The finish is surprisingly fruity as it tapers, lingering politely and suggesting another glass.

Serve the Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Blancs at about 45 degrees Fahrenheit and pair it with many cheeses and flavorful hors d’oeuvres. The Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Blancs retails for about $10 and is available at your favorite grocer or wine merchant. Visit www.domaine-ste-michelle.com for details.

As the 2009 holiday season progresses, celebrate with family and friends and remember that the season is one of thanksgiving, family and fun. It also wouldn’t hurt to crack open a nice sparkling wine to accompany the festivities.

Matt Meador is a big guy who likes big fun and big wines.